Reviews by User: Julia Niles (23)

There is a reason why this tent has withstood the test of time: it gets the job done. There is no other tent I would rather be in in a patagonian storm or a the classic wind and sleet Storm of say the Waddington Range. I have slept in mine many nights guiding on Denali or just car camping in Indian Creek- and miraculously, it still stays dry in a squall! And if for some reason, it falls apart, there is a lifetime warranty. The doors make for super easy entry and exit, the windows are in the right place for checking conditions, and the color fends off depression when stuck inside. When living in it long term with three people, it provides plenty of pockets for everyone to claim a bit of their own real estate. It might be heavy, but it is worth every ounce when sitting out a storm. To staying dry in the mountains!

It turns out that I bring this pack everywhere. I can fly with is stuffed into my carry-on without it taking up much room or adding weight- then I have a pack to use cragging, ice climbing, mountain biking, or just using to put my wallet in on my way to yoga. I used this as a leader's pack on The Direct South Buttress of Tiedeman in the Waddington Range. It was perfectly sized to fit a jacket, water, crampons, headlamp. I find that lots of other packs of similar weight do not quite have the volume this one does. Knots do help to keep the straps from slipping. You can attach an ice ax- or quickly throw your jacket under the bungee. When really loaded down, the straps are a little thin- you just have to adjust them so they lie flush on your back. I prefer not to have a waist belt when climbing- they get in the way of my harness. So this pack works perfectly when the climbing is an adventure demanding a little extra gear.

The Sawtooths Range in Idaho is not known for rain. It had also been a dry summer, so wet weather was the last thing I expected. The Quark went in the pack just because it was too light not to bring. It would at least serve as good wind protection high on some route at Elephants Perch. Little did we know, we had chosen the wettest weekend of the summer. We were three pitches up the beautiful rock climb, Myopia (IV 5.11), when we turned around and saw death by cloud moving in fast. Ten minutes after touching down, the rain and thunder started. We got to our floating tent and scrambled to lift it to high ground. It was raining too hard to get in the tent- so dawning the quark, I became the human water repellancy tester. I couldn't believe how dry I stayed. We cooked dinner in the deluge, I watched as our friend's ancient gore-tex soaked right through, meanwhile the 9 oz Quark kept me totally dry. I got in the tent that night cozy and dry. After twenty four hours of rain, the hillsides had slid down covering trails with 5 feet of debris. The floods caused a chaos of mudslides in the region, yet I remained in peaceful oblivion wearing the phenomenally dry Quark Jacket. All that said, I would not choose this jacket on long expeditions where it might be subjected to lots of friction with rock or ice. It does not have lots of pockets for days of use. Its best attributes are that it is light enough to put in the pack when you might not need it. And it really works when you do. Now, all we need are Quark pants.

This is a great choice for a day pack that fits nicely and organizes gear so it is easy to grab in a pinch and intuitive also. There are not too many extra additions to this pack that I have not found useful in some way. I did find that the straps for carrying the skis diagonally on the back of the pack could be bigger. Skis are getting awesomely fat these days. My only complaint is that the pack alone seems quite heavy.

Yes! Mountain Hardwear! Back in the game with some killer alpine climbing pants. These are a wonderful cool to cold weather active pant- that I find works great- there is a thigh pocket, an elastic cuff, and a excellent fit for high stepping.

I don't need any other helmet- this is light and fits my head. The hole at the back fits a pony tail great so I don't have to deal with my hair flying in my face when I climb. I don't think this is intentional, but it is a nice feature. The straps take a bit of working to get this helmet to fit your head perfectly, but so far, it is the only helmet that does not immediately go cock-eyed on me. It make me bring a helmet when I normally would not.

I wear them so much that I need a new pair every year. These gloves are miraculously warm and dry. When the weather looks sketchy and I'm planning a big trip, these gloves are the first thing I grab. As a guide, I handle wet ropes often and find that this is the only glove I can wear that does not turn into a sponge. I need the dexterity that they offer without the hassle of having to change them when they get wet. Excellent ski touring, alpine climbing, or camping glove. Durable, dry, light, and warm.

Wow. This sucker is warm! For the size (it compresses quite small) this thing really packs in the BTU's. There was a cold snap up in the Canadian Rockies while I was on my ice climbing trip. I couldn't manage sitting in a coffee shop with nothing to do but write reviews for another day- so I went for it. At minus 18 C, this thing is KEY apparel for the belays. Even following my fellow torture lover, I wore this jacket happily- and forgot my pain for a few brief moments . . . until I had to get back on the sharp end.

This jacket rocks my world. The fit is superb- long sleeves with a comfy thumb hole. When its a bit chilly- a hood to protect against the stiff breezes, yet it's light enough to barely know its there. This jacket doesn't waist any weight on extra pockets or random frills- it is a lean, mean, ski touring machine (especially when I wear it). I have yet to find a better jacket for the long up-hill battles on skis.

I thought I had finished searching the market for lightweight stoves after I tried the jetboil, but Primus has stood up to the challenge and created an ultra lightweight stove system. I finally got sick of eating dehydrated meals- so I brought the Primus along on my three day trip into the Wind River Range of Wyoming and found that it worked brilliantly. I can go light and eat my pancakes too! The lid doubles as a frying pan. Both the lid and pot are coated with a triple layer non-stick surface that works great and cleans easily. The Primus ETA Express Stove burns at 80% efficiency as opposed to the usual 40-50% which allows me to save weight on fuel which is important when my pack is already full of climbing gear. The other benefit of this stove is that you can put any pot on it- not just the small one that comes with it. While the ETA Express is a bit lighter than the jetboil, it does not pack as small. Also it does not hang without purchasing a separate hanging kit. It is always nice to be able to keep the stove off the fuel off the snow on those cold nights.

This is a wonderful belay device. It provides friction when rappelling or belaying on skinny ropes, yet it is not too narrow so that you have to work too hard when using it in guide mode (thus keeping my tendinitis at bay). However, I am waiting for BD to come out with a device just like this for super skinny ropes. For example, today, I was rapelling into a ski line in Chamonix, and would have appreciated a "mini" Guide ATC to use with my 6mm line.

I don't need any other helmet- this is light and fits my head. The hole at the back fits a pony tail great so I don't have to deal with my hair flying in my face when I climb. I don't think this is intentional, but it is a nice feature. The straps take a bit of working to get this helmet to fit your head perfectly, but so far, it is the only helmet that does not immediately go cock-eyed on me. It make me bring a helmet when I normally would not.

I have not tried a flavor of this bar that I do not like. When forced to eat bars, I often resist because most bars do very little other than provide some caloric input. However, these bars inspire me to eat them even when not away from civilization. They have an incredible list of ingredients, they do not set my stomach reeling, and they taste good.

The fact is, we all need to poo sometimes. If you are going to climb a route on any "beaten track" this is an easy way to manage it. I use them for river trips, big walls, climbing routes, big peaks (especially Rainier). This is the best system I have seen so far. Each pack comes with toilet paper and a sanitation wipe, and they smell the least when it comes to sticking it in your pack. Be civilized- manage your poop.

I ran into someone skiing Wimpy's Knob in Jackson Hole, WY who was wearing this pack also. He burst out, "I love this pack! I call it my penguin!" This pack does it all. I love the versatility. When I ski with it, I use the straps that are otherwise tucked under the white panel on the back. They are also removable. There is a great small pocket at the top of the pack under the lid, so if you remove the lid, you still have a pocket to stash your lighter, lip balm, and sunscreen. I find the fit excellent. My only request would be to have a removable back pad that could double as a sleeping pad.

You cannot beat the Phantom when it comes to cozy, lightweight, and functional. My only concern is that I wear it so much that I am going to have to find some "down soap" soon so as not to rappel all the people in the coffee shop. I bring this jacket out with me on every trip because it is the lightest layer I own for the warmth. I really love the soft chamois lining on my chin, the zipper is easy to use, and the fit is just right (I am 5.10, 140). I do not find that the sleeves are too short.

This glove is warm, durable, and supple. The soft lining adds just enough warmth for active cold weather sports. There is a loop on the finger to clip to a carabiner so that you can hang them off your harness without getting snow into them. I use these for cold weather mixed climbing and have great dexterity for dealing with the rope and ice screws. One layer of Nikwax really helps for waterproofing.

When it comes down to it, this is the stove that works for personal or two person use on lightweight climbing or skiing trips. You don't need the hanging kit to hang it- just wrap a ski strap around the neoprene securing another ski strap underneath and you can hang it on anything. Also, it is the only stove (and I don't recommend this) that you can bring into the tent with you and use to help warm up and dry out. Just the fact that you can hold the stove in your hands while it is on (because the 'pot' connects to the stove)makes it far superior to any other.

These poles are hard to beat at the price. The flick-lock system works great even when it is cold or wet or icy. The metal tip makes adjusting dynafit classic bindings super easy- I find that the poles with plastic tips get stuck in the metal. I have not broken one for two years. I do not need to look any further.

These things rock my world. I was climbing with the Nepal Tops and have seen the light! There is a hop in my step and an extra swing in my tool- cause these things do not weigh a thing. I was a bit worried about the lack of support compared to the Nepal Top, but find that it is not a problem- I would easily trade the flexibility and versatility of this boot over the heavier ones. That said, I found myself back in plastic boots while ice climbing this weekend in minus 25 degree weather. Burrrr!

I started skiing yesterday in minus 25 degrees wearing these and just a light liner. We ended up skinning up 6,000 feet of south facing terrain on a sunny day. Nonetheless, it got hot. I remained totally comfortable in all conditions simply by venting the side zips. When we hit windy ridge tops, I instantly warmed up when I zipped them up again. These are not the best pants for crampons- but perfect for skiing. If you want to wear them while ice climbing, I recommend wearing a gaitor to trap the cuff (and to keep them from tearing if you catch a crampon). Size small fits me great- I'm 5.10 and 135. But being a woman, the pee funnel is absolutely necessary with these pants on cold days when I've got lots of layers over them as there is no butt flap. I find that I get cold more quickly than most people- these bibs are the ticket for me as the fabric comes high to encapsulate the core. But, I also tend to do lots of sports where I warm up and need to ventilate as these pants allow. They are a great active cold weather pant.

I know we are not supposed to talk about gaitors. None of us like that sometimes it makes sense to carry yet another item just to keep the snow out. But, this might just be the tool for the job when it becomes necessary to get between the snow and your ankles. It is also great for leashing in flaring ski pants on the alpine or ice climbing missions- also, I might add, protecting those expensive pants. These gaitors are stripped down to the essentials. The material on the back is stretchy and breathable (ie not waterproof) but the material on the front is waterproof- so you get the perfect combination of breathe-ability and dry feet. These are also the toughest gaitors on the market. Spend your fifty dollars on gaitors that are going to last- allowing you to get your mind off of them- and just have dry feet.

I wore it for about 2 seconds in front of my sister before she stole it off my head. And she's not giving it back! I guess I owe her for the sweater I finagled last year. It definitely gets lots of positive comments. Pick another one though if you're actually gonna get gnarly: it doesn't fit under a helmet.