Reviews by User: Shorty (65)

My wife and I have used these tools for lots of ice and alpine climbing. The Grip suits itself to smaller hands very well and the relatively straight shaft, compared to other tools, allows for a very easy swing; especially when you’re pumped stupid. They plunge well in the snow when you’re on alpine routes. Because the shaft doesn’t have much of a curve they do not hook as well on beat-out routes or mixed climbing. If you’re doing a ton of bullet-hard ice, however, they are a dream to swing.

These pants were absolutely huge. I got the small (I have a 30in waist) and they barely fit with the adjustable waist cinched all the way down. Both the warmth and ventilation were excellent, and the zip-in track pants were great for wearing when I got off the hill for the day. Tons of space for everything in multiple cargo pockets.

I’ve had these bibs for about four years now, and they’re absolutely bomber. When it comes to battling through nasty mountain storms for days at a time, there’s nothing that I would rather have. However, on nice days they always end up in the bottom of my pack, jealous of my lightweight softshell pants. The combination of high bibs and a jacket inhibits breathability a little too much for my taste. The bottom line is: if you’re expecting horrendous weather, get these bibs. If you’re climbing on a nice day, leave them at home and wear something lighter.

Stealth Rubber makes a huge difference in traction for approaches and even steeper hiking. While it does not bite into the dirt as well as a trail-running shoe, you can walk up a 50-degree rock slab with no problems. They offer enough performance for easy 5th class climbing and are awesome on long 4th class routes. I have very wide feet and I sized up a ½ size with good results.

This harness is perfect for ice, alpine and trad climbing. The ice clipper loops are far easier to use than a floating ‘biner with a bunch of screws on it, and the contoured shape is wide enough in the back to make for a relatively comfortable hanging belay. Everything is easily adjustable, even with gloves on. My only complaint is that the tie-in point is a little on the small side, making it less ideal for any aid climbing. Since it wasn’t designed for that in the first place, it’s pretty hard to complain.

If you hate weight, these pants are great. You’ll never notice the weight in your pack or on your legs. The ¾-length side zips make them easy to put on and take off with boot on, and they don’t go all the way to the waist where they would cause pressure points. Any lighter, and they would not be burly enough for the mountains. But, as they are it’s just enough.

I bought these boots to replace a pair of Scarpa Freneys that were stolen, and I like the M-Finity even better. They're incredibly light and very comfortable. They fit my wide feet well. The cuffs are very soft, which increases precision on techy mixed stuff but wears you out on really long ice pitches. My only complaint is that the plastic part above the heel bail is too short for my Black Diamond crampons to work. I changed over to the Petzl Darts, and they work great.

This helmet takes the comfort and adjustability of the classic Ecrin Roc and leaves the weight behind. It easily adjusts with one hand and doesn’t move around on your head on once adjusted. It’s plenty light for sport and alpine climbing, and the headlamp clips are very easy to use.

I have been using the Petzl Reverso for a few years, and I can honestly say that I like the ATC Guide better. The Black Diamond device locks more securely and releases easier thanks to it's specific release point. I wish you could get a carabiner through this hole, but I suppose it's smaller to keep people from accidentally setting it up wrong. The ATC Guide is a little heavier then the Reverso, but it's worth the trade off. You'll never see me on a multi-pitch route without this thing.

At first these things sounded like a gimmick, but I am really impressed at how well they perform. The anti-fog coating keeps them from getting all steamed up on bike rides (like the Reflex glasses do). The stems are more comfortable than the Reflex sunglasses as well. The color-changing lenses do such a good job that I often forget they’re on and get strange looks when I wear them inside. They don’t get quite dark enough to be used on high-altitude climbs, but my eyes seems to be more sensitive than most.

Unlike the massive Ronin pants, the AK pants have a relatively trim fit. They are still just baggy enough that you won’t get mistaken for an 80’s holdout, but fit close enough that they don’t get in the way for backcountry hiking. They stay nice and dry, and all the zippers are waterproof. Ankle zips let you flare out a bit in the park.

These shoes are great for everything from bouldering to trad climbing depending on how you fit them. Most will go super small for bouldering or sport climbing. I literally get the smallest ones that I can pull on. They’ll suck to start with but when they stretch out they’ll fit like a sticky glove. For trad climbing, size them like bedroom slippers (feet flat) and they will fit perfectly in thin cracks. They will stretch more than a full size if you climb a lot so be ware of getting them too big.

These are great tools for both water ice and alpine climbing. Lots of clearence and the small pommel allows easy plunging in hard snow. I suggest not using the Viper Android Leash if you are planning on doing any alpine climbing as it does not allow you to grab the head of your tool. You are better off in the standard Android or the Lockdown Leash. Great tools if you have small hands.

This pack is about as stripped down as they come. It’s pretty well a sack with a (removable) lid. If you’re planning on a 40lb or less load, than it’s a pretty good bag. Don’t carry any more than that. I was stuck with an 80lb load on one trip and ripped the shoulder straps right off this thing. Jansport replaced them for free but it still didn’t help with the hike out. The waist belt doesn’t fit a waist smaller than 30in very well.

When I first got this thing I was very skeptical. It looked way too gimmicky to actually be functional. After a month of using it, I’m a believer. The main advantage of using this over a daisy is that it allows you to clip into two different anchors without violating the double-clipping that makes daisy’s body-weight only. Being able to clip in before finishing your anchor saves you tons of time on long routes and rappels.

These work surprisingly well for leashless climbing. My advice it to take some tape and beef up the inside so it’s the perfect thickness to cradle your hand in the gloves that you plan on using the most. It definitely makes these easier to hang onto. Put the new attachment (Strike) on the upper shaft and matching is easy as well. The only real drawback is that you get a lot of pick shift when matching on rock. These things do make it nearly impossible to plant the shaft of your tool in the snow.

The Reverso really comes into its own on multi-pitch climbs. The ability to belay directly off the anchor with a solid, self-locking system is extremely helpful. On long trad and ice routes, there is not reason to carry anything else. The Reverso allows you to eat, take pictures, organize the rack or anything else while you’re belaying. For a party of three, it allows you to belay two seconds at the same time with ease. If you’re just cragging, get something else.

These are great tools for both water ice and alpine climbing. Lots of clearence and the small pommel allows easy plunging in hard snow. I suggest not using the Viper Android Leash if you are planning on doing any alpine climbing as it does not allow you to grab the head of your tool. You are better off in the standard Android or the Lockdown Leash. Great tools if you have small hands.

This hat stretched a full size over the course of a week. If you get it and it's a little tight, don't worry. It won't be that way for long.

When you’re heading up a long route with only a pitch or two of aid, these are definitely the way to go. Much smaller and lighter than standard aiders, they are easy to bunch up and clip to the back of your harness. If you’re spending more then a day up there, get something beefier. Anything under a day and these are the ticket.

Don’t you love snow sticking to your crampons? Well, no one else does either. These Anti-Balling plates are very easy to install and they are worth their weight in gold. My only complaint is that a long alpine route with a lot of rock will pretty much destroy them in a day. If you’re spending most the time in the snow, they’re definitely worth it.

These leashes are great for ice climbing, they are easy to use and hold your hand firmly to your tools on steep ice. If you plan to do any alpine climbing, either get the standard Android Leash or the Lockdown leash as these do not allow you to let go and grab the head of your tools.

Since buying this thing I've taken several diggers bad enough that I was convinced something was broken... except that I didn't have a single scratch. I'm amazed how well this thing protects the upper body. It's also very breathable (well, for full body armor) and incredibly comfortable. My only complaint is that the cumber-bund thing doesn't fit quite perfect with the chest protector, so you have to mess with it a bit, but that's a pretty small thing to whine about. Basically, get one if your ride anything with big-crash potential.

This pack holds everything you could possibly need for a day of shuttle runs... including a full-size digital camera to shoot your friends riding the manky mank. I had a Nomad for a while and it always seemed stuffed to the gills. This thing has tons of room for everything. I'm not usually a super-pocket fan, but DAKINE gave this bag just the right amount to keep your tools and parts separate from everything else.

Don’t go with the big size unless you have an absolutely massive dog (or dogs). The large holds about three liters or water, and holds its shape well when full. It also packs super small. The only real drawback is the soft rim–which needs to be stiffer to hold its shape well when the bowl just has a little food or water left. I found it be too floppy in general and traded for something stiffer.

These new Spectres are a major improvement over the earlier model. The cut-out shaft greatly reduces weight without sacrificing strength at all. You can beat the hell out of this thing placing it and just sharpen it up like your ice tools at the end of the day. The doubled sling lets you lengthen your connection so rope whip won’t pluck it from the placement. Though it was designed for the ice, the Spectre is actually better for placing in iced-up cracks and mossy top outs. It’s great when you need it, but back it up if possible.

This ‘biner is great for just about everything where you need a locker, except belaying. Though it is made of round bar stock, the D-shape does not lend it self to belaying very well. They are also a little on the heavy side. For this reason, I like other lockers for long trad climbs or alpine routes.

These super-light ‘biners are ideal for anyone who wants to shave weight off their rack. If you're not one of these people, there's something wrong with you. They are surprisingly easy to clip and have about the same gate clearance as bigger ‘biners. Stick with full-size carabineers for sport climbs.

I sized these up so I could use them with a fleece liner for ice climbing belays. Basically, I'm tired of trashing my good gloves in only a few days. They've seen a season of iced-up ropes (which bare a striking resemblance to barbed wire) and they still look great. I can't imagine wearing out a pair of these in less than 5 seasons of regular rock belays.

You're not going to find a better pair of DH / Freeride gloves for the money. These things kick ass, and your hands will thank you after a serious wreck. They're a bit on the toasty side, but not enough to keep me from using them in Moab heat. I did have a glued seam fail on me, but I just used some Shoe Goo and it's all better. Unless you have money to burn on gloves, just get these and be done with it.

Nothing but smooth shifting from this cassette. I haven't had a single problem.

After you get this kit, add a few kickass pain killers, an epi pen, and a couple extra rolls of athletic tape and you're set for just about anything that you can fix in the field. I've had some friends end a trip with some pretty nasty stuff, and this kit had everything I needed to get them stabilized.

I tested these boots during the Ouray Ice Festival and was incredibly impressed. Despite their light weight (or maybe because of it) they climbed ice very well. I found myself placing my crampons much more than actually swinging them. There is no comparison with regular boots when it comes to mixed climbing. The Ice Comps clearly win the battle. The built-in gaiters did a good job of keeping the snow out, and the Gore-Tex lining kept my foot dry when I stepped through the ice and into the river. These boots were a little snug on my very wide, high-volume feet, but they still did the job OK. They also run about a half size tighter than the regular Lowa ice climbing boots. My suggestion is to remove the heel spur unless you climb M10 or harder. It can be done with an allen wrench in about a minute. You have to approach in a different pair of boots, which is a pain, meaning these would be a very poor choice for the mountains. Ice and mixed cragging only.

My wife and I both have this pack, and neither of us have ever seen a bag that fits our biking needs better. It holds a cross country or freeride helmet easily. The shin guard holders also get a workout when we don’t feel like sweating up the padding while riding a 40lb bike uphill. The tool, tube, pump organizer keeps everything in its placed to appease my organization obsessions. My only complaint is the bladder. While the quick disconnect eliminates the need to run the hose through the pack every time you want to fill the thing up, it has come undone a few times. Just have to make sure it’s in there good.

This thing removes stuck gear and opens a bottle at camp. What else do you want it to do? Carry your pack for you? The one drawback is that the backside is a little too skinny to really bang on it when you’re working on a stuck stopper. Fix this problem by wrapping the back with tape, giving you a soft pad to hit the palm of your hand.

This is basically a super-long rabbit runner. They are pretty light and easy to bundle up and carry. Setup with two or three anchors is very easy and it gives you a central loop for everyone to clip into, prefect for multi-pitch climbs. The one major draw back is that it’s a little more painful on your wallet when you have to cut it up for rappel slings. For this reason I would recommend a regular cordelette of 7mm unless you know that all the stations have chains.

This axe is so light that you don’t notice it on your pack at all but still has a strong enough head to be useful. The positive-clearance pick penetrates ice better than most ice axes, making it a good choice for more technical routes. If you’re planning on doing some industrial scale chopping with the adze, get a heavier axe.

This is your basic tough-as-you-want dirt jump helmet. It stands up to repeated crashes and the occasional drop kick pretty well. The liner came out of mine after a punting session, but I glued it back in there and it's been fine since them. I do wish it was a bit more vented, but it does OK even for trail riding.

After years and years of use and abuse, my Vector was so worn and scratched that I could barely read the numbers, so I got the new standard. This watch feels much more durable and is just as lightweight as the old style. Arc'teryx made the face and numbers a bit bigger, so you can read them at a quick glance during approach. My only complaint is that the alarm is still pretty quite. I've slept through it a couple times (with the old watch) and was hoping it would change, bit that's not the case. Either way, if you don't want need a heart rate monitor in the same watch, this is the one to get.

Now don't get me wrong, I love my Quarks, but damn these picks wear out fast. One over-swing into some rock and they're done! Better pay more attention when carpenter arm sets in. Either way, I wouldn't trade those tools, so I just keep the pick stash stocked.

These thing work great for steep ice and even mixed climbing... and that's with leashless tools. Black Diamond seemed to find just the right mix of insulation and dexterity. They do get wet eventually, but the waterproof is pretty good. The only thing I don't like about these gloves is that I only have one pair. Time to do something about that...

These are the gloves I bust out for seriously hard ice and mixed pitches. My only complaint is that the leather palm comes in direct contact with your skin, so these gloves aren't quite as warm as they could be with just a think piece of fabric in there. However, they're still pretty warm and they grip like nothing else.

If you don't need a million bells and whistles on your heart rate monitor, this is an excellent choice. It works very well and is super easy to use.

With the whole double-chamber thing, I expected this pump to do a bit better, but it's still pretty good. This thing is super tough, and it's really nice to have a gauge on there. The gauge isn't super accurate, but what do you expect on a tiny hand pump?

I'm sure this thing pumps like a champ, but you can't read the thing because it goes to like 280psi!! You have no idea if you have 20 or 40 psi in your tires...

This thing rocks for seriously hot days. I've been wearing it with and without upper body armor, and it works well both ways. I wish it stretched just a bit, but you don't notice once you have it on your body. It sure stinks after a weekend of racing though. Damn...

These shorts do the job, but I'm not stoked on the stretchy side taps that are supposed to hold them on your waist. Besides the fact that this features works poorly, it sits right on the hips and feels horrible with a bike pack. The full-length side vents rock though.

I put these things on my downhill race bike and they definitely get the job done. I'm running 8-inch rotors to stop a 40lb bike at race speeds and haven't had a problem. I was running Hayes 9 before, and the XT blows them out of the water.

This shirt rocks other than that it's a bit narrow in the shoulders.

I was surprised how thick this shirt was. It's a bit on the warm side for the middle of summer, but it's super soft.