Reviews by User: Jonathan S. Shefftz (70)

I just realized that my review from many years ago is still archived and contains a potentially confusing reference:"Membrane buttons can be a bit hard to press if wearing very bulky winter gloves."Starting in Fall of 2004, BCA redesigned the housing with buttons that are far easier to operate with bulky winter gloves, so please ignore that part of my old review! ***** 2009 update -- my complete review is available at: http://www.wildsnow.com/1605/backcountry-accesss-tracker-avalanche-beacon-review/

Ascension glue reached perfection many years ago, and the purple hide (sadly recolored to BD orange this past season) is legendary for an excellent balance between glide and grip. The ClipFix system does not work for certain tails that are extremely rounded off, turned up, or very thick (although it does work fine on an Atomic R:Ex), and it's not the system of choice if you want to try using a single set of skins for a quiver of skis. (Although at this price you can easily afford a set of skins for each pair of skis!) Plus it has a weight penalty of about an ounce per skin. But otherwise it works flawlessly, as long as you first attach the skin to the tip and the tail, and then only after setting the clip do you stick the skin to the base. (That way the entire skin is tensioned, rather than just the last several inches.) In my very first outing with these skins, I skinned almost 15k' vert over the span of three days on Rainier, and only once did the Clip become undone, a quick reclipping, and it stayed on perfectly after that.

I never plan to see whether it really works, but fairly light and affordable. The BD website documents one life that was definitely saved, and two other burials where it worked (although victims probably would have lived anyway). Any powder-oriented tour should require these.*****August 2009 update from my original July 2003 review: BD no longer seems to be providing a list of documented deployments, but since my review, I've read about a couple more, and the victim was always able to get the mouthpiece in, which is very reassuring. (All the victims lived, although burials were of such short duration that they probably would have lived anyway even without an Avalung.)An Avalung is also a great idea for treewell safety. The Avalung packs are definitely more convenient though. This past season, I was touring with a friend in Boise who had the pack version, while I still had a sling version. Whenever we need to add or remove a layer, I had to take off then put back on my Avalung. Okay, only several seconds at each transition, but it's still somewhat of a bother. The flip side is that when we've met up for early summer skiing, he still has to bring his integrated Avalung along with him. November 2009 update: I somehow completely missed a reference in a TAR article last year to a failed deployment, with the survivor noting how the Avalung mouthpiece was torn out of his mouth.

For a single burial, or a multiple burial where you can turn off each beacon as it is found, this beacon is amazingly fast for a novice, and gets even faster with more practice. However, multi burials in which each beacon stays on as it is found can be very tricky and require significant practice. Also, although the shorter range (as compared to analog beacons) is almost always not a problem, occasionally it can interfere w/ the search if the beacons are aligned such that the range is at its absolute minimum. Membrane buttons can be a bit hard to press if wearing very bulkly winter gloves.

This has to be one of the best deals available in AT boots. Once it was Scarpa's stiffest Dynafit-compatible boot, but now everyone wants even stiffer models. It's still a great all-around choice. Adding a Booster Strap would help too. I switched models only b/c the Dynafit Zzero4 offered me a much better fit for my foot, and a bit better downhill performance. But for anyone looking for an all-around AT boot, with reasonable weight for the up, and reasonable control for the down, this is an outstanding choice if it fits you.

This ice axe is definitely not well-suited for serious mountaineering. Although it does have the standard B rating, and the spike is much more than just a cut-off shaft, as featured on some competitors sites. But for ski mountaineering trips that require an ice axe for only relatively brief sections (and hence the axe will stay on the pack the majority of the time), the ultra-lightweight is a great relief. Furthermore, although the technical performance of this axe is hardly outstanding, it will make you safer since you'll never have another reason not to leave your ice axe at home to save weight on a tour where you might encounter steep terrain.

Seems kind of silly at first, but this item will eventually save lots of time when scraping off wax by keeping your scraper sharp, especially harder wax for colder temps. It works well though only if you can screw it down onto the top of a wooden work bench. I sharpen my scraper after ever few scrapings, and it really does make a noticeable difference.

This is a must-have item for repairing rock damage to your edges, both smoothing out nasty burs, and also roughing up case-hardened edge segments that your tuning file just skips over.

These work very well for adapting an alpine vise to secure Nordic touring skis. However, for Nordic race skis, a dedicated full-length ski support form is still a must.

For strapping my skis together, I prefer to use the hook-and-loop ski strap style padding to separate the ski bases and edges. But Voile straps work very well for securing gear like crampons to the outside of my pack, plus they have the even more important benefit of coming in handy for some backcountry emergency repair.

This bag offers an outstanding ratio of warmth to weight, with high-quality construction and materials throughout. The only drawback I've found is that the shell is only mildly water resistant, so for wet climates buy the more waterproof version or take along a BD Winter Bivy (or buy a synthetic bag instead).

Amazingly light - when empty, like it's not even there. Can also hook up a Platypus drinking tube to make it into a hydration system. A few drawbacks from the minimalist design: -- Have to be very careful filling it up, given how small the opening is. -- The design allows it to be freestanding, although it can tip over, so don't leave it standing up on its own if the cap is not on. -- Drying out the inside in between trips takes some times.

Far more elaborate than the typical reservoir, and very easy to hold open while filling. A few drawbacks though: -- Have to be careful to tighten all the way when closing, otherwise can leak. -- Can be tricky to open up sometimes. (Try breathing into the tube, which can change the air pressure up against the cap.) -- On the heavy side for a reservoir. -- The design encourages lashing to the outside of a pack, but that places the weight where it is less efficient to carry.

If you cram a lot of gear (especially hard objects like ski boots) into your pack and then compress it tightly, this handy little device will prevent water from spurting out hydration tube's mouthpiece when the reservoir is squeezed too much inside your pack.

Although it's advertised for phones, I use it to keep a GPS or digital camera at the ready on my pack. Although not as protective as the bigger cases sold for such purposes, it is lighter. Just be sure to girth hitch your electronic device's lanyard to your pack in case the pocket does come loose.

Delivers high flow rate yet shuts off easily. Just be careful to have enough overlap on the tube, or else the mouthpiece could slip off. (I had this happen once to me when I wasn't being careful, and I've also found a couple on backcountry trails.)

Light, comfortable, protective, versatile—this helmet definitely deserves its popularity. Just some minor nitpicks to be aware of: -- For warmer weather, although you can remove the vent plugs and various pads, keep careful track of them. If you often need more ventilation, consider the Fuse model instead. -- The ear flags can be a bit drafty in cold weather, though a balaclava will solve that problem.

Very lightweight emergency insurance. Also, it made a great floor when I used it once in one of those single-pole minimalist floorless tents.

Excellent detail for loading maps onto a compatible Garmin mapping GPS unit, it covers where you recreate. For example, of some areas on the west coast I've skied, Lassen, Tioga Pass, Rainier are all covered. But Hood, Tahoe, Shasta, St Helens, the Sisters, Adams, Shasta are not. (Yes, they're not National Parks, but the East version does cover many areas outside of National Parks, perhaps only because the eastern states have so few?) Fortunately, the Garmin website has a very useful feature that allows you to zoom in a national map and determine specific coverage areas.

The 100k detail is only so-so, but you do get the entire country with universal coverage. For loading maps into a compatible Garmin mapping GPS unit, it works well, and is worth the price, but that's about the extent of its utility.

I print up all my topo maps on this paper, they last forever, and no more worrying about getting my maps wet. Although the paper is pricey, you can print on both sides. Just be sure to do a test print on regular paper first for each map, since you definitely don't want to waste any sheets at this price.

I switched to these boots from my old Salomon 9.1 RS boots, which were the top-of-the-line from the pre-Pilot binding system days. In general, Salomon skate boots provide excellent support with a sculpted design, and the internal lacing system quickly provides even pressure throughout. However, I notice almost no difference with the Pilot system, even when I go back and forth between my Pilot skating setup and my older Profil skating setup. So don't feel the need to update to Pilot if you have a good Profil setup.

This is a great glove that for ski touring in anything but very, very cold temperatures. Even though, you can use this glove for the ascent and slip on an over-mitt or bigger insulated glove for the descent. The only drawback I've found is that long gauntlet might be useful for ice climbers, but if you like to remove your gloves frequently, it becomes a drawback. However, given the glove's excellent dexterity, frequent removal should not be necessary.

This ski performs about as well as possible given its relatively narrow width. And given the weight and price, even more impressive. In tricky unconsolidated snow, the width is obviously insufficient, and the lack of heft makes it more prone to getting knocked around. But in good powder, it can get by okay. And on any sort of consolidated snow, whether springtime backcountry corn or skinning up a groomed ski area early in the morning, it absolutely rips. (Note that I have mine mounted with Dynafits, of course.)

I use the 55L version for trips that entail a long hiking approach with all my ski gear on my pack then I want a lighter pack once my ski gear is on my feet, or trips where I first have lots of gear to set up basement then I want a lighter pack for daytrips from basecamp. The Shadow is an excellent choice for these applications, although has a few annoying drawbacks: -- The top lid can flop around like crazy in many situations. -- The pack is very narrow at the bottom and then widens higher up, so when stuffed to its fullest, it's somewhat unbalanced. -- The tightening straps around the waist belt could use a dual approach (instead of one strap on each side). -- With both the metal rod and the top lid removed, the pack works fairly well, but with the metal rod removed yet the top lid still in place, the pack becomes somewhat unwieldy at the top. Also, note that the waist belt has slots for a BD Ice Clipper, which provides a useful attachment point for other purposes too.

The good: - Carries weight close to back and doesn't shift around. - Excellent ski-carrying system. - Lots of other nifty features. The not-so good: - Weight is actually 40% higher than claimed. - Hook-and-loop on straps can chew up a Schoeller jacket if not careful.

Ski crampons should be required gear for any steep traversing skintrack. They greatly enhance security in such situations. The only drawback of the Fritschi design is that you have to exit the binding to attach the crampon, so best to figure you that you'll need the crampons before you're suddenly on steep terrain and have to do some tricky moves to exit and then reenter the binding. The other problem is finding a convenient way of carrying them in your pack, try threading some shock cord through the small holes in the crampon for an external attachment approach. If you have the most recent generation of Diamir bindings though, you might want to consider the newer Axion crampon, which can be affixed yet not deployed until you actually need it.

This is great all-around AT boot with Dynafit compatibility: light enough for long tours, but strong skiing performance for the backcountry. The only competitor that offers all the same features at about the same weight is the Garmont MegaRide. I stiffened mine up a bit with the classic Raichle Flexon tongue, which is very easy to do. My only complaint has been that the hook-and-loop power straps started off with little grip and then quickly deteriorated. I bought mine in the fall of 2004 however, so perhaps Scarpa has improved that since then. (I know they did stiffen up the flex a bit by beefing up the lower shell, plus the color scheme was altered a bit.)

The right length, a nice light weight, and a nice low price, plus has very useful depth markings. Assembly is fairly quick and easy, BUT requires some upper-body strength (i.e., when pulling the little knot over the ridge). I never had any problems, but my lightweight wife did, so we got her a different model that requires no physical exertion whatsoever.

This is a big shovel, and the shaft does not get any smaller when stowing it away, but it moves lots of snow quickly. The inclusion of a snow saw is a great value, and stows away easily in the shaft. The snow saw can be used with the shovel grip (making the shovel usable, but less than ideal), or with the upper shaft of many adjustable ski poles (but don't leverage it too much in this configuration or you could break the ski pole). I also found an old downhill ski pole that was the right diameter, hacked it off partway, and created a dedicated handle for the snow saw. Overall, not my first choice for a typical backcountry tour, but worked great for all the pit work in my Level 2 and Level 3 avy courses.

It doesn't really weigh just one pound (a bit over 17 ounces actually), but it's still absurdly light. The shovel blade is reasonably sized, although the shaft is quite short. I use other shovels when I expect to be doing any pit work, but for spring tours where pit work is not needed, this shovel is perfect, and you'll never have an excuse for leaving it at home.

I switched to the Barryvox this past season after five years of Tracker use. When set up in all-digital mode, the Barryvox is *almost* as fast as the Tracker, although the switchover to search could be a bit confusing for the unfamiliar user. Overall, if you plan on never practicing (a bad plan!), or want a dedicated loaner beacon, the Tracker is still best. But for an advanced user, who wants to be able to switch to analog for a multiple-victim burial, or who wants to take advantage of the Barryvox's other customizable features, the Barryvox definitely offers the best of both the digital and analog worlds.

This has been a very reliable binding for me in the backcountry. (I have three pairs on various setups.) Sometimes it can get jammed up with snow when trying to reenter the binding, but this is almost always easily and quickly cleared. Otherwise, it tours almost as well as my track race bindings, but offer enough support for turns on moderate terrain. But definitely buy this "manual" version though and not any "automatic" version, which can have (many) problems.

The Outtabounds has great glide on the flats, and turns reasonably well on moderate terrain. Uphill grip can be weak though on firm snow, especially if you fall toward the bottom of the weight range for your ski length, so pick your priorities before you pick your ski length. (And choose the Rebound if you want more touring performance or the Boundless if you want more turning performance.) Overall though, Fischer is definitely leading the field in waxless turn-oriented backcountry skis, with Atomic and Salomon producing what appear to be close imitations of the Fischer SBounds line.

The Raven Pro is amazingly light for a full steel head and a real alloy spike (as opposed to just a plug in a cut-off shaft). The pick and adze are on the narrow side, but that appears to be the only performance concession made to save weight. The weight penalty is surprisingly small compared to my all-aluminum ice axe, and the additional performance is worth the weight on routes where I know I'll be using an ice axe for extended periods.

This is a classic 12-pt steel crampon, so not much to say here, although the semi-automatic (i.e., heel throw, with plastic toe cradle, not a wire bail) "NewMatic" attachment system is very secure.

This ice axe is definitely not well-suited for serious mountaineering (although it does have the standard B rating, and the spike is much more than just a cut-off shaft, as featured on some competitors), but for ski mountaineering trips that require an ice axe for only relatively brief sections (and hence the axe will stay on the pack the majority of the time), the ultra-light weight is a great relief. Furthermore, although the technical performance of this axe is hardly outstanding, it will make you safer since you'll never have another reason not to leave your ice axe at home to save weight on a tour where you *might* encounter steep terrain. The crampons I use with this axe are the Camp aluminum 12-point model: the description mentions 12 points, although I'm pretty sure the model that is included in this package is the 10-point version (as shown in the photo).

This is the pant I always bring along on all my backcountry trips, it's been pretty much everywhere. Actually, it's almost never been out of my pack, but in case the Schoeller pants are enough for the weather, I can quickly zip these over my pants without having to remove my ski boots. In my pack, they are very small and very light. When I do actually wear them, they have been completely waterproof and reasonably breathable. They would probably not hold up to extensive use for, say, lift-served skiing, but they are great at what they are designed for.

Unlike the BD Whippet, this ski pole self-arrest grip can be almost instantaneously deployed or retracted, with no parts to store away somewhere. That was my primary reason for purchasing it (instead of a Whippet), since I need a self-arrest grip only for steep exposed traversing skin tracks (i.e., up to lower 40s), not for the descent. The Condor also offers more hand protection than the Whippet, and is a bit more versatile in offering options for holding it. But be forewarned of two installation problems: 1. To use the strap like a normal ski pole, remove the key ring that comes with the strap, and instead buy a ½-inch key ring from a hardware store. One should suffice, since all the ½-inch versions I've seen are pretty bomber (and unfortunately are very difficult to install: use needle-nose pliers), although if in doubt use two. Do *not* use the flimsy little versions that a garage uses for your key when you bring your car in for repair: even two of these are insufficient. (I tried...) 2.a. For installing on a BD pole from Fall 2004 or later, buy the version with the shaft, remove the BD grip, cut off the Condor shaft just a bit below the Condor grip, slide the BD pole shaft into the remaining Condor shaft, and secure w/ epoxy. 2.b. For BD alu pole from before Fall 2004, could buy the version w/ the shaft, buy an extra flicklock mechanism from BD, hack off the very bottom of the Condor shaft, dremmel out a cutout in the shaft, affix flicklock. Or buy version w/o shaft, remove BD grip, add some very small shim (maybe a couple layers of plastic tape), then put on Condor. (I happened to have an extra BD upper shaft available.) 2.c. For a more traditional twistlock pole, if the diameter is exactly right, buy the version w/ the handle and you're all set. Otherwise, buy the version without the handle and use various shims (small layers of plastic tape work well) & epoxy to get it to fit, or if big differential, then see 2a. ***** Fortunately once all this is done, operation in the field is very quick and easy!

A can of this glue -- combined with some brown paper bags, a waxing iron, and a beer bottle (for rolling/pressing in the hot glue, not drinking!) -- can work wonders for your old skins. Just be sure to use adequate ventilation, as the fumes are fairly strong.

My wife really loves hers for backcountry overnight trips: great warmth-to-weight ratio. But pay attention to bcstore's sizing note, as they run really small, and tend not to increase very much in length as you go up in sizing.

A good collection of items. But I’ve since upgraded to a more powerful snow crystal magnifier, and also a digital thermometer. Note that the clinometer needle’s bubble will crack, but this has no detrimental effects (i.e., no liquid inside or anything like that).

Excellent optics and easy to transport and set up. Somewhat narrow field of vision though. Also makes objects appear upside down, although that isn't a concern for snow crystals.

Not exactly an essential item, but if you have an extra $19 and want to encourage yourself to do more stability tests, then it's a good purchase.

Very affordable shovel & saw combo, and don’t have to worry about how to pack the saw. On the heavy side, but the shovel is a highly efficient snow mover. Only major drawback is that you can’t use the shovel and saw simultaneously, unless you attach the saw to a pole (in which case you have to be careful not to torque the saw too much, since you could overstress the end of the pole).

Takes more practice than the Tracker, but very fast once you gain experience. Also better for multiple burials in which each beacon stays on as it is found, since you can hear the different beacons. Longer range can be helpful in certain situations, although usually is not a factor. Harness system allows for very easy change to search mode.

These gloves are amazingly versatile. I’ve even worn them comfortably (as long as my core was warm) in below-freezing temperatures. They dry very quickly. You’ll find yourself wearing them almost all the time. The thumb could be more reinforced though; I shredded mine very quickly, although with some sewing I managed to keep them going for almost two entire (extended) ski seasons.

Very lightweight emergency insurance. Also made a great floor when I used it once in one of those single-pole minimalist floorless tents.

The Flicklock mechanism works perfectly, once you tighten it up sufficiently. Nice design for the pole baskets too. But I would strongly recommend the Traverse model instead, which costs about half the price of the probe model. The probe model does add a screw interface that allows you to join together the two lower halves, but it’s too short, thick, clunky, and tapered to be a good substitute for a dedicated sectional probe. If you want your adjustable probe to be a backup or supplement to your dedicated sectional probe, then I would highly recommend this model, but don’t buy it thinking it can be an acceptable substitute to the separate purchase of a dedicated sectional probe.

Flicklock mechanism works perfectly, once you tighten it up sufficiently. Nice design for the pole baskets too. Carbon lower shaft makes for excellent swing weight, though somewhat flexible unlike some carbon poles (although this also absorbs shock). Had some problems with the pole tips starting to bend (probably a result of a sticky Diamir heel lock one spring, which I eventually fixed), but so far haven’t broken. One of the few probe poles that really could make a decent avy probe, though I always carry a dedicated sectional probe too.

Okay, so they’re only pole baskets, but I like the sawed-off part of the basket, which keeps the basket from getting in the way of the pole tip penetrating the snow while skinning up steeper terrain.

My wife used this ski for a few seasons, and liked its light weight. Obviously very affordable too. Performance is okay, and quite versatile. But when she upgraded to a newer model (and with a bigger sidecut), the performance was much better.

I’ve rented the kiddie version of this sled a couple times to tow my niece while nordic skate skiing. The waist belt is very comfortable and secure. And before loading her into the sled, I tried some extreme maneuvers (i.e., turning a high speed along a trail with a significant side cant) to see how well it tracked: absolutely perfectly! If I needed a sled for an expedition, I'd definitely choose this model.

I’ve rented this sled a couple times to tow my niece while nordic skate skiing. The waist belt is very comfortable and secure. And before loading her into the sled, I tried some extreme maneuvers (i.e., turning a high speed along a trail with a significant side cant) to see how well is tracked: absolutely perfectly! Once we have kids, I’m definitely buying one of these.

I really don’t understand why the Freerides don’t come with these, but if you’re going to be skinning, you need a set of return springs. Otherwise, the skis will have a rather odd tip-of-the-toe floppy feeling that will be awkward during certain maneuvers (especially on uphill kick turns, which are an essential skill).

These brakes work well, but are rather heavy. For sub-alpine tours, as well as above-treeline tours out East (where the terrain is so steep that brakes aren’t going to stop a ski anyway), I just go brake-less and strap-less to save weight. The savings are noticeable. But for Western trips I swap the brakes back in. I haven’t tried wildsnow.com’s tips for removing the non-brake pad, and instead use some thin screwdrivers to pry it up.

My wife has been very happy with these boots (so much that she never uses her alpine downhill boots anymore, even for lift-served skiing), although we swapped in the liners from her alpine downhill boots since they worked better than the stock Scarpa liners. Only major drawback has been a broken hinge on a buckle. Scarpa will be introducing its Thermoflex-style lines for the 2004 season (previously available only in Europe), which should produce some significant weight savings.

Rather expensive for a compass, but comes with some additional features that are very helpful for novices or even for more experienced users. I usually leave the rubber boot at home to save weight, though it’s a nice plus for packing on planes. If you have a few bucks to spare for buying a compass, this is a great model. If not, then just a more basic compass that still has adjustable declination and a mirrored sight.

Very light and super easy to use for stove novices (like myself). Very good heat output also. Note that Snowpeak says to use only their canisters, but I haven’t found any good reason for this. Only main drawback is that a large pot would be somewhat unsteady. Also, like all canister stoves, fuel is rather pricey. (Titanium model is only 3/4 oz lighter yet costs $34 more.)

Unlike iodine, kills all the nasties, yet doesn’t taste nasty. And unlike bottle forms of the same compounds, can just toss a few essentially weightless and individually sealed tablets in your pack for an overnight trip, as well as always keep some in your first aid kit. A piece of cheesecloth would be a good idea to filter out any debris before treatment. Only significant drawback is that this treatment would become fairly expensive on a per-liter basis.

Perfect to bring along in your bottle cag on long mountain bike trips as a backup in case you run out of water. Flow rate is slow, but adequate. Also purifies, in addition to just filtering.

A nice compromise for those (e.g., my wife) who want a very light pad, yet don’t want to got all the way to the Ultralite 3/4. Noticeably heavier than my Ultralite 3/4, yet definitely more comfy too.

Heavier and bulkier than the more minimalist LED headlamps, but you get a more secure strap system, an easily adjustable angle, and an extra LED. Only downside is that it’s possible to snap the batteries in the compartment in a way that seems secure, but actually will cause the light to flicker or not work at all.

So small and light you’ll never have an excuse not to bring it along in case of emergencies. Yet works well too even if you’re planning to need a light. Also takes standard batteries. Minimalist headband works surprisingly well, and easy to position on your head to get the optimal angle. Only downside is the occasionally flickering switch.

This is the lightest sleeping pad available (despite what the other review states). Bulkier than an inflatable pad, but you can lash it to the outside of your pack without worrying about puncturing it or getting it wet. By itself, comfort is not as good as an inflatable pad. But with a 3/4 inflatable Ultralite for spring camping on snowy volcanoes, you have a very warm, very comfy, and very light setup. Cheap too!

This pad is so light and takes up so little room in your pack that you end up worrying you forgot to take it. By itself, comfort is definitely compromised. But with a 3/4 Ridgerest for spring camping on snowy volcanoes, you have a very warm, very comfy, and very light setup.

This bag is so light and takes up so little room in your pack that you end up worrying you forgot to take it. Yet it provides if anything even more warmth than you would expect from its 40-degree rating. Cut fairly tightly, although probably optimal for my 5'8" height and 142 pounds. If you treat it well it should last forever, but definitely not for those who plan on being really rough w/ their bags.

Perfect for carrying GPS, radio, snacks, or small camera in a convenient location (i.e., no need to take off pack for access). Significantly lighter and less expensive than alternative pouches.

Very light with lots of useful features and surprisingly large capacity, all at a reasonable price. Much more stable than some of the larger-capacity lightweight packs on the market. I plan to use this for all day hikes, Nordic ski touring, and maybe even some alpine ski touring (when I have no plans to load up the skis on the pack). I have heard though that you have to be careful stuffing large items into the side pockets, as the elastic can separate from the mesh.