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Spring Desert Climbing

‘Tis the Season

by Creed Murdock
While some are saddened at the passing of another ski season, spring finds a rock climber’s mind drifting toward sandy realms and sun baked crags.

In most deserts, spring is in full swing: Joshua Tree, Hueco Tanks, Indian Creek, Cochise Stronghold and my favorite, Red Rocks, just 20 minutes west of Las Vegas. This unique sandstone climbing mecca offers warm weather, excellent camping and awesome climbing for all levels. From pumpy sport routes to moderate multi-pitches, Red Rocks can satisfy any climbing appetite.

Before you make pilgrimage, be sure to have a plan. Some climbs bake in the sun while others lie deep within the shady canyons, so bring appropriate outerwear. A fleece or light breathable rain jacket is always handy. Bring a headlamp—longer pitch climbs with approaches can keep you on the rock well into the evening.

As for racking up, bring it all. Red Rock routes are diverse, including splitter cracks that can eat up copious amounts of cams, plated faces that accept nuts perfectly, and smooth bolted faces that require quickdraws.

Climbers, now is the time. Dust off that rack, grab your rope and hit any one of these warm locations before the temperatures and crowds rise to unbearable extremes.

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